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Central Serengeti - Tanzania Safari

Shaging, charging and killing

Our home for our last 3 nights was Lemala tented camp in central Serengeti. Yes, more tents, no lions repelling walls, and more 1 minute showers with the water buckets but an itty bit fancier and with wifi in the dinner tent.
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Our 3 days in Central Serengeti were just as amazing as what we have already experienced. On our first day, we saw 1 more cheetah walking around looking for prey, 2 more leopards (!!!) one of them feasting on a dead wildebeest.
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Look at that face... Nothing says "bugger off" more than a leopard looking at you like he wants you for his next meal.

Although I don't mention them all, Central Serengenti also has tons and tons of different species and is a great place to see the Big 5's.
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Our funniest moment of the day was to see a lioness trying to get it on with her mate. During mating week the female is the one deciding when she wants the nookie. And she wants it A LOT- every 15 minutes at the beginning!!! Then as the days go by, the stand down period gets a bit longer but they still do it 20 to 40 times PER DAY. And if her lion didn't get his viagra prescription on time, she'll shamelessly go seduce another lion. We had first row seat to see that happen, And the lady gots moves!! She starts by running circles around her male, and then throws herself on the ground belly up to seduce him. When he didn't bite the first time, she did it again. But the lion must have had a long night playing poker with the boys because he got annoyed and chased her away. So she found another male a few meters down and started the seduction dance again. The male followed her for a while and we thought we'd see lion porn in the making, but no. The new prospect kept looking back at the other boyfriend and decided to stick to the bro code. Bro before nympho.

Day 2 started on a sweet note. We saw a small lion pride with a mom giving a bath to her cub and then the cub helping his mama cleaning herself. Such sweetness.
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Then we had a bit of a scare, again. We were driving down a road where we came across a huge elephant with a tusk half broken. As soon as the elephant looked our way, Wilfred knew he didn't want us anywhere near him. Then David and I saw the signs. He started to walk purposely towards us, kicked with his foot then digged in the ground as a bull would do before charging a mantador. Wilfred put the jeep in reverse and kept going until the elephant stopped following us, which was quite a ways. Then comes 2 safari jeeps. Wilfred advised them to turn around, especially because we heard an elephant charged & hit a jeep and injured 2 tourists on Sunday. The 2 jackasses waited about a minute and drove towards the elephant despite the warning. The elephant turned to them and charged the jeeps as fast and powerfuly as you can imagine. He missed the last jeep by what seemed like inches!!! That was crazy to watch!!
(this is not grumpy trump but 2 cute siblings playing together we saw a little later)
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At the end of the day, we were treated to a magical sunset over the Serengeti. Just spectacular!!
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Last safari day. :(

While driving torwards the sunrise, we came accross a very large and thick cloud of what looked like fog. But of course, there's no fog in the dry heat of the serengeti. Turns out it was dust, an incredible amount of dust created by an incredible amount of bewildered wildebeests. Looks like the migration followed us. I know dust and wilderbeest sound like nothing exciting but in the light of dawn it looked stunningly chaotic.
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Then a bit further, we saw it all unfold. A gang. The mafia of the Serengeti. 19 of them. 19 lions on a mission to kill. 3 females, 1 male and a bunch of big and small cubs.
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Wilfred knew it was about to happen. David had the camera ready. It all happened so fast. One kill here!! One kill on the other side of the road!! One kill further in the field!! Wilderbeests screaming, fighting for their lives, suffering for excrutiating long minutes. Then it started again. Same lionesses going for kill #4' then 5. A cub lion "playing" with a cub wilderbeest, making it suffer before finishing him. Kill 6, and then 7. We witnessed 7 kills. Well that's a bit of a lie. David witnessed 7 kills. After the 2nd kill, I had so many tears rolling down my face, I couldn't see a thing. Yes, yes , lions need to eat, it's the circle of life, the strongest survives, bla bla blah... It's still traumatizing to see. And 7 kills for a pride of 19 is greed. The last kills were just opportunity kills. Wilfred said he's never seen such mass killings in a day from a pride. Then we heard over the CB 4 more kills were made while we drove away to have our picnic breakfast.
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For the rest of the day, we asked Wilfred to take us away from the dozens of safari jeeps hurdled around the large pride eating their all you can eat buffet. We drove around and enjoyed the ever changing landscape of the Serengeti and surounded ourselves with thousands of zebras, wildebeest, gazelles, elephants,buffalos.... For the last time. Until our next safari.
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A weird thing about coming across big herds of wildebeests is that they see you coming but always decide to cross the road as fast as possible in front of the jeep instead of running away from it. And the Gazelles must have had the same teacher in their Tourism class. "Now children, what do we do when we see a big automobeast coming our way?" All together " Always assume you're on the dangerous side of the road and quickly cross in front of automobeast to the safe side!"

Wildebeest and hyenas came to sing us lullibies for our last night. And a big lion came to drink from the water boiling station right there, behind our tent.
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We heard more animals that night then any other. The whole gang was there to wish us farewell.

If you ever thought about doing a safari, do it!!! Access2Tanzania and our guide Wilfred did an amazing job and we recommend them wholeheartly!! Seriously, do it!!!
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Posted by Rattrays 15:38

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What an amazing trip! Annik - I'm with you...I was almost in tears just reading about the feast....poor wildebeasts!!

by Sam

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